Early on a Sunday morning in July, two brothers from Boston sat on Reykjavik’s rocky shore, their faces facing the cold bay water and their feet soaking in what felt like a warm bath. Ben and Lucas Zheng landed at Iceland’s international airport around 4:30 am, and they didn’t have many morning options for how to spend the beginning of their eight-hour layover before flying to Venice. So, taking full advantage of the daylight, they walked 40 minutes from the city center to the northwestern tip of the Seltjarnarnes peninsula. There on the rocky beach, they rolled up their pants and sat for a few hours, their legs basking in the natural warmth. Kvika poolwhich, at 12 inches deep, is more of a foot bath than a hot tub.
The Zheng brothers stumble upon the most Icelandic of experiences. With more than 600 natural hot springs, the volcanic island gets the better part of its heat and energy from geothermal sources. But it has also incorporated abundant hot water into its culture, making bathing in public pools a friendly national pastime that, some say, is the secret to its citizens’ happiness.
Of course, visitors also love a good soak, a predilection that helped make the milky turquoise waters of Blue Lagoon, near Keflavik airport, Iceland’s most popular tourist attraction. It’s so popular, in fact, that between the parking lot with tour buses and the strictly regulated time slots, bathing there might not be too relaxing. Luckily, there are many other outdoor geothermal pools in the neighborhood. All of these are within an hour or so by car from Reykjavik, and each has its own personality.
Sky Lagoon: The hedonist’s bath
Outside of Reykjavik, Sky Lagoon, opening in 2021, is one of Iceland’s most luxurious geothermal pools, with the unique feel of a spa — and a seven-step “ritual” to prove it. Combining both local architectural traditions (remember the turf walls) and dramatic views, the Sky Lagoon is stunning, with passageways from well-appointed locker rooms almost magical: You step out from the cold and slippery shower tiles (here, as everywhere else in Iceland, showering is compulsory before bathing) in steaming blue water under the open sky. Towering boulders lead to a vast infinity pool overlooking a bay.
There was no shortage of bathers taking selfies clutching the Aperol spritz they bought at the swim-up bar. But somehow the pool never feels overly crowded; there are enough quiet corners to provide a solitary soak for those who seek it. You can loll for hours in the balmy waters, or, for an extra fee, start the seven-step journey and add a cold plunge, sauna, steam and scrub. Or head to the cafe for wine and cake.
Admission starts at 6,790 Icelandic krona, or about $52, including towel rental, and 9,790 krona for the seven-step ritual.
Hvammsvik: The sight-seeker’s bath
People have been living in Hvalfjord (or “whale fjord”) since Viking times. It’s not hard to see why: Not only does the long, narrow fjord cut so deep into the countryside about an hour north of Reykjavik that Allied forces hid their ships there for protection during World War II, it it will also offer a spirit-lifting view to everyone. directions. Hvammsvik, which opened along the fjord’s southern lip in 2022, offers direct access to the frigid sea from its black beach, but most bathers come for its eight heated pools overlooking the stunning view Each pool has a different temperature, from warm to piping hot, though the heat of those closest to the ocean changes with the tide.
Comfortable changing facilities, a small poolside bar and a cozy indoor cafe whose enticing menu includes the opportunity to taste local crowberries, spread over baked Brie, complete the offer. The pools themselves aren’t huge, and Hvammsvik seems to be on the excursion list for daily cruise passengers, which means that in the high summer season it’s usually not the place for quiet socializing. relationship with nature. For that, you’ll want to book one of the four beautifully designed houses on-site that are available for overnight stays.
Admission starts at 6,900 kroner, towels not included. Accommodation starts at 899 euros, or about $978, per night for a two-bedroom house.
Gudlaug: The community bath
The long, sandy beach on the edge of the port town of Akranes, about 30 miles north of Reykjavik, is home to a community bath built with funds established in memory of a local couple. (Gudlaug the wife’s first name.) Designed by Icelandic architecture firm Basalt, the striking concrete structure opened in 2017 and consists of three tiered concrete rounds. The lower level is a wading pool, and the observation platform above offers panoramic views of the beach and ocean; on clear days you can even see Reykjavik in the distance. But the star attraction is the hot pool in the center, especially in the early evening, when a dozen or so locals crowd in for a chat and postprandial soak. There are restrooms just behind the building, and outdoor cubbyholes for storing clothing.
Admission, 500 kroner.
Laugarvatn Fontana: The family bath
on a summer day, Laugarvatn is a boisterous mix of Icelandic families and international visitors. About 50 miles east of Reykjavik, and smack in the middle of the Golden Circle, the complex spans the edge of a shallow, black-sand-fringed lake where the cool water makes a refreshing splash after touring its more thermal offerings. The spa draws busloads of tourists who come for the swim and the chance to watch its geothermal bakery in action (the volcanically heated soil is hot enough to bake bread — called hverabraud, or “hot springs bread”— which is buried there). But Laugarvatn also has all the facilities that locals look for in a bath: three pools of different temperatures, steam rooms where steam flows directly from the ground, and a busy cafe serving soup, cake and delicious bread.
Admission, 4,990 kroner for adults; bread baking demonstration, including tasting, 2,990 krona.
Reykjadalur Thermal River: The nature lover’s bath
Nothing like a boiling alpine river to evoke a little cognitive dissonance. The stream that winds its way through the mountains outside Hveragerdi, about 30 miles southeast of the capital, looks like it should be frozen, what with clear water flowing through grassy meadows and the rocky peaks above. But the steady puff of steam rolling over the surface — so to speak the sulfuric smell — gives it away: The river is so hot in places that even a quick splash risks serious burns.
After an hour’s climb, however, you will find artistically placed rocks that form pools where the hot water is cooled by an adjacent cold stream. You’ll know you’ve reached the right place when you see open-sided wooden pavilions for changing, and happy hikers basking under the watchful gaze of peering sheep. A parking lot and cafe mark the start of the trail; both get crowded quickly, but if you leave before 9 am, you can have the river — and the deeply Icelandic combination of stunning views and soothing warm waters — all to yourself.
Admission, free.
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