Pass through a Roman Renaissance palace
Venice’s lanes may be crowded, but many of its museums are not. According to official city record, each year more than one million tickets are sold for St. Mark’s Basilica and for the Doge’s Palace, but lesser-known museums sell only a small part of it. One of the most attractive is Palazzo Grimaniin sestiere Castello (adults: €14). The palazzo was once the residence of the Grimanis, a noble family who dominated the political and cultural life of Venice throughout the Renaissance as devotees and avid collectors of Roman art. Today, visitors can enjoy the palazzo’s elegant grand architecture, inspired by the Roman Renaissance, and a collection of around 120 statues dating back to ancient Rome. The main hall, the Sala della Tribuna, is so rich in art and beauty that it is almost overwhelming (and quite perfect for Instagram).
Support a ‘Scuola’ or three
Although the name means “schools,” the Venetian Scuole are centuries-old mutual aid societies, hosted in magnificent palazzos and now open to the public.
During their heyday in the 16th to 18th centuries, the Scuole governed most aspects of life — from education to social security — for Venetians who did not belong to the nobility or clergy. Today, they mainly maintain the priceless art that adorns their headquarters, relying mostly on membership fees from locals and tickets from visitors. A visit to one or more Scuole can offer a unique experience for those who appreciate art and value ethical tourism. “Even in times of overtourism, people can do their part and help. Visiting cultural institutions that need support is a good way,” says Stefano Croce, the other co-founder of Venice Guides for Sustainable Tourism and a member of the Scuola Dalmatia.
There are dozens of Scuole, but three in particular are worth a visit, with tickets from €5 to €10. The Scuola Grande di San Rocco, with its majestic marble facade, hosts some of Tintoretto’s finest works: the Sala Capitolare is considered Tintoretto’s Sistine Chapel. The smaller one Scuola Dalmatia is home to a collection of paintings by one of the masters of the Venetian Renaissance, Vittore Carpaccio (the meat dish is named after the painter), including a famous canvas depicting St. George and the Dragon. Then in Dorsoduro, there is the Scuola dei Carminiwhose ceiling is covered with canvas paintings by Tiepolo, dating from circa 1740.
Beyond the Jewish ghetto
Venice’s Jewish ghetto, one of the oldest in Europe, is a major tourist attraction, but in the past few years, the Jewish Museum and many of the city’s shuls have been closed for renovations. Now open to visitors on the island of Lido is a lesser-known site, the Cimitero Antico, which was used between the 14th and 18th centuries.